When Dario Cecchini staged a mock funeral for the Bistecca alla Fiorentina when it was banned for BSE in March, he shot to world-wide fame. His butcher’s shop in Panzano, a tiny town in Chianti, is foodie heaven. Opera or jazz blares from the CD player, the place is full of cookery books, jars of spices, strings of garlic and chillies, he holds brunch on Sunday mornings, recites Dante and sells extraordinarily good organic meat. He also prepares meat dishes from traditional recipes.